19 July, school visit, lectures, then trip to grocery store (non-academics: skip to end!)

19 July: busy day!

start with 7+km run, that makes 10 sessions of working out--wooHOOO! Proud of me. Will be wiped out by end of day, 8:30!

Mount Mercy School, Henry Martin Institute and the fun of international grocery shopping. For non-academic materials, please scroll to the bottom!

One of founders of school, Journalist Mr. Mir Ayoob Ali Khan, Times of India (largest distribution of English language newspaper in world)

not simply commercial school, trying to give back to Muslim community here

literacy rate of Muslims is far below that of other groups, 50%, with rate of Muslim girls even lower 

Muslims "backward socially and educationally"

Usually parents don't send their girls to private schools bc of fees, parents usually send boys. But in all schools, "toppers" are girls, they are more hard-working and eager to learn.

Director, 10 years here at this school: A. M. Neyla 

Coeducational day school with boys and girls in same class, bc founders believe this is healthier, despite pushback from some parents. Started with 58 students in 1999, now up to 800 students, 50% girls (emphasis of this school to address gap in community). 22 students from Somalia (getting 10 more soon), 2 Yemenis, some American- and UK-born Indians. About 10% non-Muslims. Wanted mix of students from all communities, but this is a predominantly Muslim neighborhood. School open for all. 

Tina (SS teacher)

Educational system: one class for Islamic studies for Muslim students; 1 period moral science for non-Muslims (value education for all)

Massive change in Hyderabad, 40% Muslim (dominated by Muslims for 400 years) toward wider girls' education. Suggests that there is an unspoken trade-off or understanding between parents and girls: girls get education, girls agree to wear scarf or burka. 

Q: Mary: how does school operate re: prayers or fasting? 

A: student choice. They celebrate several local festivals, holidays of multiple faiths with "slightly more emphasis on Islamic holidays"

Q: Maya: what are the major subjects?

A: math, science, social science, English is medium language; choice of Hindi/Urdu; Telegu is compulsory for all (more kids take Hindi than Urdu, which is first language for most kids)

Q: Melinda: what is tuition? What are parents' professions generally?

A: 13000 rupees/year. Most parents working abroad (30-40%); school is lower-middle class and middle class. Many students have joined us from famous/expensive schools in Hyderabad. Fee structures is very competitive, whatever is earned we put back into the school. We have no other sources of running school, no gov't aid, no individual donations. About 100 students are sponsored by the community. 

Q: Maya: as a minority institution, don't you get support from the gov't? Neila: some tuitions paid bc of Urdu language students (scholarships, 1000 rupees/student for that child's account. Handed over to parents.) In some schools, gov't pays salaries of teachers, but then dictates curriculum. This is true after 5th standard, where the gov't curriculum takes over (but not re: salary)

• 3.5 million Muslims in Hyderabad, about 10% are Shi'as. No Shi'as in this neighborhood. Hyderabad is known for harmony between Shi'as and Sunnis.
• several extracurricular clubs, sports, drama, etc. mostly on Saturdays (can't do after school bc of more difficulty with transport home at late hour). 
• Students come from up to 7kms away, but most are nearby. 20-25% school transport, about 50% parents drop off. Public transport never used bc not dependable.

Q: me: is part of your mission to send to university after plus 2?

A: all get accepted to plus-two institutions for further study. About 70% go to some kind of university.

Q: Wendy S.: what's your biggest challenge?

A: participation of parents. Would like to establish teacher training institute for teachers for GIRLS. Would like to start junior college ("+2") and college of education. There is a huge shortage of qualified, good quality teachers in India.

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I joined the group who toured the primary grades, from nursery through 5th standard. I was really impressed with the language instruction (Urdu, Hindi, Telegu, English, some Arabic). The little kids are always such a pleasure to see and interact with. I was especially impressed with the bravery and facility of the 8-10 year olds with English, they really wanted to talk, to ask questions about American kids, foods, weather, etc. It was fun. I asked them (mostly boys) about sports, cricket and football. The school program today finished with a demonstration (by kids who looked to be about 9-10 years old) of the four stages of a Hindu wedding. It was really cool, they were all dressed to the nines. Hope my pictures do them justice.

I learned a little about the starting salary for teachers, 5000 rupees/month. A teacher with a master's degree and about 15 years of experience earns roughly 15-18,000 rupees/month, still topping out at only $300/month (under current rate of exchange, still a record low for the rupee against the dollar at 61r/$). The director was telling me that some teachers in high demand areas--math, for example--teach 3 classes in one school for 5000rupees, then 3 in another. This is the way they maximize their income. Their primary school teachers tend to be less highly trained than the teachers for the older kids. But the classrooms in which the kids spend most of their time are rather small, at least compared to my chidren's school in Danbury (AIS Magnet School). I wouldn't say there's a vast difference, and this school does offer the benefit of a large, multi-storied central courtyard that facilitates air flow and out-of-class activities. It leaves the classrooms a little less space, so they tended to be rectangular in shape with student desks in narrow rows. Kids sat 2-3 to a desk (more for littler kids). Each student had his/her own materials, workbooks for language study, copy books for writing down instruction, etc. I really enjoyed the Telegu class, where young Omar (probably 6) showed off his reading and translation skills for words in Telegu and English, such as grass, ladder, and flooring. Students are encouraged to stand and answer promptly when the teacher calls on them. That must keep them on their toes (although I did see one little girl asleep with her coat on--see, I'm not the only one who thinks 75 degrees and rainy calls for a jacket!) 

The question/answer session with the teachers was interesting. They asked about punishment, fostering a sense of individualism, and managing the demands of a curriculum during hiccups (related to weather incidents, student illness or absence, etc.) The more we talk to teachers, the more we learn how universal our concerns, stresses and joys are. 

__________________________Lunch at hotel: yum!__________________________________

Henry Martyn* Institute, 80 year old multi-faith center, research and reconciliation, peace building. Our materials say it's an ecumenical Christian organization dedicated to the objective study and teaching of religions, etc. Practical goal: help people find unity in diversity.  (*British missionary; original local for institute was Lahore.)

Our host/guide is Dr. Verghese Manimala, director, a 35-year philosophy and metaphysics teacher. Great ideas about how QUESTIONS are paramount for intellectual (and other?) growth. Cites Paolo Friere's banking vs. liberation paradigms of pedagogy. Amen, brother. Not necessarily answers to all questions...to ask ultimate questions is the capacity of human beings, but we don't necessarily find answers. True dat.

Trying to build up sense of pluralism and dialogue, purpose of institute. Two other speakers, one from Hyderabad University and one (fasting!) from another university, both elder statesmen of the area/discipline. Also Dr. Fathima Ali Khan and Dr. Mohan Ramanan.

•  Courses offered: MA in Theology (with focus on Islam) coordinated with university in Seattle
• PG degrees too, including peace-building, interfaith relations, focus on Islam
• some language education (Arabic, Urdu, Persian, etc.)

Strong library opened to all, faculty, students, research for scholars from India and abroad

Riots in Hyderabad (communal riots in the old city) in 1990. Impetus for more outreach, called Aman Shanti projects (and there are others. Aman = peace in Urdu/Telegu; Shanti means peace in Hindi/Sanskrit)

Women's training programs (interfaith, intercaste) include handicrafts, henna, other training. Even microfinance. Activities for children too. Have health services too to meet needs of communities. Young men's programs to "develop initiative" and "channel energies in a positive direction" (paraphrase). Some technical courses. Also peace meetings before large festivals, elections, etc. HIV/AIDS education for men and for women in interfaith (Hindu/Muslim) capacity. Social and Economic Empowerment of women in the old city of Hyderabad through self help groups, skill enhancement programs, and other endeavors. Also provide relief post-disaster, as with major tsunami (trauma counseling, for example). 

 

 HMI works in 4 states in NE, plus Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh, and a northern state (Kashmir?). helps teachers develop resources for regular curriculum to foster and teach peace. 

Offers the ideal of a PROexistence, rather than just a COexistence (thinking globally toward meaningful and sustained peace). 

Dr. Mohan Ramanan (Hindu perspective on pluralism):

HMI plays important role in tri-city area here, attests to consistent and meaningful activity of institute in community.

One of the negative legacies of British is term Hinduism (geographic term), completely inadequate to describe 85% of Indians. Different religious groups thrive here, with about 12% Muslims (more than in most Muslim countries). This minority is huge in number. Christians here since the days of St. Thomas who came here soon after the crucifixion of Christ. Jainism is offshoot (in his opinion) of what we call Hinduism. M. Gandhi came from Gujarat, where many Jains live, this conditioned him (in part) to non-violence. 

If India can work as a democracy, you must start with/from pluralism. More accurate way to describe "Hinduism" is through philosophical concept of Sanatana Dharma: there is no beginning and no end. It is cosmic thinking, not chronological. Sanatana dharma is "Fundamental substratum of all religions". Ties into the understanding that you are in a cycle of rebirth, that each of us has already had several lives and will have more. (Christians could easily view relationship between human and God in same way to address nature of time. We as humans only understand our finite and direct experiences, whereas God's knowledge and concepts are infinite.) Dharma is righteous living. Karma is action. 

The differential factor between Sanatana Dharma and other faiths is the central understanding/concept of rebirth, a repeating cycle of life. 

Hindu = unhappy life, why? must be result of bad karma from before, your negative actions in previous life. Your duty becomes to work out your karma through good live. These 4 terms govern life:

Dharma = duty

Artha = economic life (must be led well, you must earn enough to raise your family; fundamental to healthy life, but must be moral, ethical)

Kaama = instinctual life (goes beyond sexual life, some people think it's just about sexual life)

Moksha = liberation from cycle of rebirth

Sanatana dharma/Hinduism = man is inherently divine, not a sinner. Sins can come upon you through unethical behavior. You are god if you only understand the nature of yourself through deeper and deeper meditation. You arrive at a true understanding of the world. 

Many people find caste system bewildering, but it's so deeply intertwined with Hinduism, you can't speak of one without the other. Caste is not peculiar to India or to Hinduism (exists in many forms worldwide). It stays as a major factor in Indian life, dismantling it permanently is "a pipe dream". Caste is a central organizing principle for Indian/Hindu society. It was originally a system for division of labor, cites French scholar L. Dumont. Sanskritization is process whereby people of lower class emulate their "betters" in attempt to elevate themselves (if unofficially). 

Also need to understand the interdependence of caste. But how do you manage difference? Many scholars say that Hindus manage difference well, particularly because of dharmic element. Good at absorbing difference over the centuries. 

3 philosophical systems of Hinduism: (recalls lecture from UCBerk prof. Dr. Robert Goldman):

1. Adwaita: monism: god is one without a second, complete convergence between individual and god and nature. Knowing this truly is the highest level of existence. There is a huge following of this philosophy
2. Visistadvaita: qualified version of this philosophy, somewhere man is also dependent on god. 
3. Dvaita: man is separate from god. Must repent his sins, has to come to terms with God through repentance and prayer. 

No uniformity of practice at temple, for example, not run by executive fiat of a book. Not organized in this way. Constant effort toward "doing your own thing." So "the Hindu" actually defies all description. Inside temple, there are idols because Hindus see the idol as repository of feelings and emotions that the person has about god. Use image to channel emotions toward image, allow divinity to filter through this icon. Devotion (bhakti) is an important aspect too, which has several forms. 

This kind of variety sets the stage for a totally pluralistic perspective on life. The practicing Hindu will always have empathy for practices of others. 

Secularism becomes a term used by political parties (our understanding of secularism diverges greatly from Indians'.) Secularism here is a positive acceptance, even the promotion, of different faiths. Indian secularism is godly, not godless. 

Patriarchal organization of society, so what about life of women? Cites female saints as examples of celebration of women (not convincing). Leadership in religion is not entirely male (um, but mostly it is). Not a persuasive point, imo. Suggests the patriarchal attitude has to change to address India's future challenges.

Awesome speakers at Henry Martyn Institute in afternoon:
Dr. Khan (L) spoke about the history of pluralism in India
through an Islamic lens (whoa, seriously awesome intellectual,
and great storyteller), and Dr. Ramanan (R) talked about it through
a Hindu(ish) lens. He is an impressive scholar as well. 

__________________________________________________________________________________________--

Dr. Fatima Ali Khan

Islamic perspective on pluralism (soft voice, difficult to hear). Living in a plural society (one of most diverse cultures, so it's a given, no matter where you live, you won't see homogeneity). 

Founders of Hyderabad state were Shi'a Muslims, 1000 years after Islam came into being. Her talk is about the limits of identity labels, don't promote healthy pluralism (slot people as one concrete thing). Architecture and languages in Hyderabad and Andhra Pradesh attest to plurality of peoples over the centuries. Language, however, does not unite, nor does religion. There is a campaign afoot to divide Andhra Pradesh into more discrete states by language group.

Shi'a founders built remembrances to battle of Kharballa/Kharbana (sp?) re: who is best suited to pass along teachings of Islam. Hyder = another name for Ali, so Hyderabad was name given to new city, developed as massive fort, defeated by Moghul king Orenzib (sp?). It was at this battle where people felt that core values were hijacked. Sufi saints who lived among poor had liberal view of what God wanted (opposite of today's Islamic fundamentalists or Taliban groups). Hyderabad had quite a lot of them, more open views on how to commune with God. Kinds also had liberal view of what religion was (Hyderabad is known to be a laidback city, even to now). Religious riots have political spine to them, easy to jump on difference for short-term vote bank effect.

Chaminor (an icon of Hyderabad): not a mosque, not a victory monument. It was a centerpiece with 4 arches, one facing each cardinal direction. Leader who laid foundation stone was also poet, asked that God bless the city so it would have people as the sea has fish. Hence, fish arch, fish building, fish as one of the symbols of the city. At one time (early 1900s?) Hyderabad was the richest state in the world, and the nazan of Hyderabad was the richest man in the world. Hyderabad used to send money to Medina before it became Saudi Arabia, destruction of Hashemites and discovery of oil, implementation of Wahabi Islam (used to be a Sunni kingdom). Islam there began to be defined in a very different way (who knew?) They define--and in fact codify--the religion in their terms. Dr. Khan thought she lived in a standard Islamic territory, later realized how liberal and tolerant it was, uses example of an aunt who was a feminist, an activist, started a school for girls, wrote jingles against certain gender-specific practices. She even had a fatwa issued against her--amazing!

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Dr. Verghese _____________, a Christian scholar and our host here. See intro in beginning.

Living in the Context of Pluralism and Discovering a Counter-culture: A meaningful way of understanding ... (didn't get the whole slide copied in time)

His Basic Assumptions (for conditions of religious pluralism): condensed for clarity...I omitted point #8 because of its length, strongly subjective tone and distracting--even confusing--political language

1. No religion howsoever advanced or great has monopoly of religion. Religion is the birthright of the human person and it is built into his being, and no established religion can claim monopoly to this religiosity.
2. Every religion is finite and historical in nature and serves a historical need.
3. No religion or ideology can claim to know the truth in its entirety or in other words the absolute truth. We are all truth-seekers and not truth-possessors. A certain amount of deabsolutization of truth is necessary if we want to engage in honest and fruitful dialogue.
4. If we are seekers of truth, ipso facto, it calls for cooperation among the adherents of various religions and ideologies. We are living in a globalized world and we cannot shy away from this responsibility--seeking truth together and join hands for the liberation of humankind. Hence our age has to be an age of dialogue and not monologue.
5. We must be ready to learn from past history. Most of the wars had a religious background and warmongers made use of religion for their own advantage. Religions and ideologies were exploited for the sake of conquering people and subduing them. Denouncing bad history we must affirm anew our mission as the total liberation of the human being with total integrity. 
6. Money and power have entered into religions and ideologies and have distorted them; unless there is a concerted effort to isolate these evils they will destroy the very fabric of society. Power and money have such inherent attraction in them. The powers that be can masquerade as protectors of values like freedom, democracy, justice, liberation, etc. and turn out to be oppressors; they are ravenous wolves in sheep's clothing.
7. Militancy and proselytism should be avoided by religions and ideologies, if they have to work for human liberation and development. Human person is of utmost value, and respect for the mystery of the human person should be upheld. 
8. The aim of religions and ideologies should be a total liberation and let us remember it is not merely to be achieved in a world to come. 
9.  Another important factor to be upheld is that religions and ideologies are imperfect, and hence they stand in need of mutual fecundation and mutual fulfillment. No religion or ideology can survive or reach its ultimate goal in isolation. Once this basic fact is understood and if there is openness, religions and ideologies will seek for cooperation and dialogue. They should remember that they are not ultimate but only the means towards a goal, hence they are to be in cooperation. the ultimate goal is the integral liberation of human beings. 

There is absolute truth, but we cannot know it because we are finite. Our truths are partial, we understand in partial way.

It is important to keep in mind that this professor is a specialist in philosophy. Please read his comments accordingly.

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End of day: trip to local grocery store on its opening day, with Gene, Catherine, Sue, Dolores, Rae and Robyn

Oh. My. Goodness.

Walk in through metal detector and wand swipe, as in every public and many private facilities here, grab a shopping cart, and if you're like me, head straight up the escalator ramp WITH YOUR CART that has automatic drop down, no-slide brakes to encase each of the four wheels. How awesome is that? So since it's 47 o'clock at night, I'll spare you the shopping details. Let's just say, this store tries to have everything, um, except eyeliner, which I found annoying since my very recent resolution to try to do the black eyeliner make-up like women here pull off consistently and successfully--how do they do it? Long story short, feminine hygiene products and diapers are sold on the same aisle--and only those items. Not so subtle messaging there, hmmm?? There were dozens of skin whitening creams for women, even face washes. Almost every food was 3-4 time cheaper than in the States. In part that's due to the dramatic shift in the rate of exchange in the past few months (60+ rupees/dollar), but it's also because American food is expensive and Indian food is not. Union/labor wages, transportation costs, storage fees, who knows? Basmati is more expensive than other rices, but fish was way cheaper (and they had fish I'd never seen or heard of, even though this is a land-locked place), watermelon was 15 rupees/kilo (!!), carrots 55, tomatoes between 42 and 50-something, depending on quality. Gourds I'd never seen before, tons of lentils, rices, spices out the wazoo. I took just a few pictures (it was frowned upon), but have a look!

Then we had an informal and unofficial ladies' meeting int he bar downstairs. At one point we were all there but Sue, whose feeling under the weather. I''ll post a picture of her from the grocery store. It was she who obtained the special shopper card--it's orange--that we all used for discounts at the store. How proud we were of her! Very rich discussion tonight about our professional practices, our impressions of certain speakers here (including yesterday's whose work I still haven't posted, not sure I will unless you're really interested), and life choices that professional women in America make. A very rich conversation indeed. I really like these ladies, so smart and kind they are. 

Note: I can't get the pictures to go in the order I want without futzing with them for more than these past 15 minutes. So you can read the captions and put 2 and 2 together. You're smart enough to figure it out without me connecting every single dot. If you have questions, just let me know!

Materials from Brother Imran and the IREF. What can I take home?

Dolores bought a faux wedding ring, at Chris Gibson's urging.
We laughed until we cried.

Snacks to share: sugar-coated fennel seed and masala cashews.

Mercy School: 4th stage of wedding, bride and attendants

Mercy School: 3rd stage of Hindu wedding, bride and attendants at dinner.

Round one of the ladies at the bar, the rest came 30 minutes later.

Mercy School: 4th stage, Hindu wedding, almost done

Mt. Mercy: some of our 8-, 9-, and 10-yr old discussion group.
They were amazing with  their questions and rapport. 

Mercy School: adorable 2nd standard boy with tiffin lunch

Mt. Mercy School: Groom's preparation at mock Hindu wedding

Mt. Mercy School: Mehndi (henna on hands) for wedding

Mt. Mercy: me with mock "wedding guests".
The girl on R had hennaed hands.

Mt. Mercy: teachers give explanation/instruction at mock Hindu wedding.

Mt. Mercy: school employee plays traditional music for mock wedding

My rose collection is growing! I'm up to 4 now!